Kumano Kodo
From the ancient capital of Kyoto pilgrims endured 30 to 40 days (return trip) to the sacred Kumano area in the southern part of the Kii peninsula. There goal was to visit the Kumano Sanzan, the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The trail followed the coast until Tanabe and then turned east onto the Nakahechi route that cuts deep into the heart of the mountains. This route is well know for its Oji, subsidiary shrines of the Kumano diety. which were important sites of religious rites and offerings. Takijiri-oji is the point at which "passage into the precincts of the sacred mountains begins". From here it is a steep climb to the community of Takahara where you get a fantastic panorama of the Hatenashi mountain range. Continue onto Chikatsuyu-oji by the Hiki-gawa River. Most people spend a night in this area.
The next day takes you past the massive Ipposugi-tree by the Tsugizakura-oji and over more passes in deep forest until you reach Hosshinmon-oji (the gate of awakening of the aspiration to enlightenment), which marked the outermost entrance to Kumano Hongu Taisha's sacred precincts. From here the route passes through alternating forest and isolated mountain top villages until you reach Fushiogami-oji. where pilgrims fell to their knees on catching their first glimpse of the Grand Shrine in the distant valley below. This site is now known as Oyunohara, the former site ol Kumano Hongu Taisha. It was located here until 1889 when it was destroyed by the flood waters of the Kumano-gawa River. All of the Kumano pilgrimage routes lead to this mystical sandbank encompassed by mountains; it is the spiritual heart of Japan. The world's largest Torii shrine gate marks the entrance to this sacred clearing. A descent through the forest finally brings you to the austere Kumano Hongu Taisha.
From Hongu pilgrims either went by boat down the Kumano-gawa River to Kumano Hayatama Taisha or over land by means of the Kogumotori-goe and Ogumotori-goe sections to Kumano Nachi Taisha. site of Nachi-no-Otaki. the tallest waterfall in Japan. When taking the overland route most people stay the night in the small community of Koguchi. The trail leaving from Koguchi towards Nachi is a long steep climb which passes the Waroda-ishi rock where the deities of Kumano are said to meet. The Funami-toge pass has wonderful views onto the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. The Ogumotori-goe is the more difficult of the two.
There are two routes that connect to Yunomine Onsen in Hongu. One is the called the Akagi-goe route and runs from close to Funatama-jinja on the main route. The other one runs from Kumano Hongu Taisha over a short but steep pass which is called the Dainichi-goe route. Yunomine Onsen is one of the oldest onsens in Japan and was used for purification rites. It is well known for its medical efficacy and there are many legends about pilgrims recovering from incurable diseases after bathing here. Yunomine is also the site of Tsuboyu. a small cabin with an onsen bath build into the creek bed. It is the only Hot Spring in the world that you can bath in that is registered as UNESCO World Heritage.
The Kohechi route links the mountain top Buddhist temple complex of Koyasan with Kumano. It runs down the central part ol the Kii Peninsula and is one of the toughest routes of the Kumano Kodo. passing over three peaks of over 1000 meters along its 70km length. The last day of the walk is from Totsukawa Onsen to Kumano Hongu Taisha and leads over the Hatenashi-toge pass. 33 stone statues of Kannon line the trail keeping watch over pilgrims as they struggle their way towards their sacred goal.
Kumano Kodo Distances and approximate Walking Times
Nakahechi（中辺路） route
Takijiri-oji（滝尻王子）〜Chikatsuyu-oji（近露王子）
13.0km 5hr
Chikatsuyu-oji（近露王子）〜Tsugizakura-oji（継桜王子）
3.9km 1hr05min
Tsugizakura-oji（継桜王子）〜Hosshinmon-oji（発心門王子）
13.9km 4hr20min
Hosshinmon-oji（発心門王子）〜Kumano Hongu Taisha（熊野本宮大社）
6.9km 2hr
Akagi-goe（赤木越） section
Funalama-jinja（船玉神社）〜Yunomine Onsen（湯の峰温泉）
5.9km 1hr 50 min
Dainichi-goe（大日越） section
Kumano Hongu Taisha（熊野本宮大社）〜Yunomine Onsen（湯の峰温泉）
3.4km 1hr 10 min
Ogumotori-goe（大雲取越） section
Kumano Nachi Taisha（熊野那智大社）〜Koguchi（小口）
14.5km 5hr10 min
Kogumotori-goe（小雲取越） section
Koguchi（小口）〜Ukegawa（請川）
13.0km 4 hr25 min
Ukegawa（請川）〜Kumano Hongu Taisha（熊野本宮大社）
2.0km 30min
Kohechi（小辺路） route
Totsukawa Onsen（十津川温泉）〜Yakio bus stop （八木尾バス停）
10.6km 3hr 30min
Yakio bus stop（八木尾バス停）〜Kumano Hongu Taisha（熊野本宮大社）
4.6km 1hr30 min
